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Powertrain / Under The Hood • Issues after water pump/ timing chain replacement

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2013 SEL 3.5 FWD N/A

So, the pump finally went. Been dreading this day but knew it would happen. Made it to 191k, so I guess I shouldn't complain.

Happened while wife was driving about 2 hours from home. She called me saying the car started shaking badly. She had already pulled off and shut it down. We talked about what was going on for a few minutes, then i had her restart it. It ran fine for a minute, then started shaking again. She shut it down then told me temp guage was maxed out. 3 hours later, drove it onto a trailer. Ran fine. Drove it off the trailer and up the driveway. Ran fine. Coolant was empty. Topped it off and started it again. Water was pouring out from behind ac compressor and alternator. While keeping the coolant topped off, it ran for about 30 minutes perfectly. Did have a 1299 code (over temp safety active....or something like that).

Started the tear down. Replaced the timing chain, cam chains and tensioners while I was there. Spark plugs as well. Plugs are gapped at .52. Had issues getting the exhaust cam on bank 1 to align with the pin. Kept having to slightly rotate exhaust and intake cam to get it to sit correctly. At 1 point the cam did slightly rotate while i was changing the wrench position, maybe an eighth of a turn clockwise (facing the engine). One of the lobes was probably resting on the long end and slide off of it due to the spring tension. I know this is an interferance engine but could that small of a rotation have brough the valve in contact with the piston? Thought i got it on. Bank 2 went on like a hot knife thru butter. Everything rotated the way it should before I closed it up. All marked chain links were aligned with phasers and crankshaft.

Topped of fluids and started it. It ran rough! Would die after a minute or so. Check engine light came on immediately. 19 codes, cam phaser current, misfire cyl 1 2 and 3, over heat active (1299), O2 sensor, I think there was a timing code as well. Shut it off and went over all electrical connections. Missed the O2 sensor for bank 2. Started it back up. Ran better but still not perfect. Did not die. Seemed like timing was off. Issue is definitely with bank 1. Shut it off, disconnected battery and had dinner. 30 minutes later, reconnected battery and restarted. Still running the same but no check engine light. Ran for 10-15 minutes. Kept coolant level topped off. Still no CE light. Slowly brought rpms to approximately 2500. Still no CE light. Still running rough. Can hear a soft pop from bank 1, almost like exhaust is opening to early...that's just a guess.

I didn't think it was possible with the alignment pins on the cam shafts and phasers, but is it possible that 1 of the cams in bank 1 is off by a tooth? Is it more likely that bank 2 is correctly aligned with the crank but both cams on bank 1 are out of alignment with the crank and bank 2? I did not use the timing alignment tools to hold the cams. Just used 2 wrenches.

I'm going to start tearing back down tonight and I did order the alignment tool from Amazon, which I should get tomorrow.

Thoughts?

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